Climbing & hiking on the Ortler
Every ridge a new adventure
Steep flanks, sharp ridges, and a world of glaciers make Sulden a paradise for climbers and mountaineers. In the home of Reinhold Messner, rock and ice-climbing are both viable options at 3,000 metres. This is where Messner trained before conquering the Himalayas. For many climbers, it is a dream come true. The mountaineering schools in Sulden offer a wide range of classes - try it out in your summer holiday in South Tyrol!
Via ferratas & climbing gardens in Sulden
Climbing garden K2 / Langenstein
- Approx. 10 minutes below the mountain station of the Langenstein chair lift
- 11 routes for climbers
Children from the age of 6 are able to practise climbing here, supervised by professionals from the Alpinschule Ortler (1x per week in July and August)
Tabaretta via ferrata
- One of South Tyrol’s most difficult via ferratas
- Approx. 800 strenuous vertical metres
Glorious panoramic views of the Ortler north face and the Suldner mountains opposite
Tschenglser Hochwand via ferrata
- One of the highest-located via ferratas in the Alps
- South face via ferrata (formerly Otto Erich via ferrata) on a secured route up to 3,200 metres, then onwards via the southwestern ridge to the summit at 3,375 metres
- Other challenging options are the normal route through a steep scree gully or along the southern ridge that leads up to the summit along a steep route
- Please note that climbing equipment is required.
A challenge: the Ortler at 3,905 metres
Conquering the Ortler is possible along the challenging normal route that leads from the Payerhütte all the way to the summit. On its north face, however, the largest ice wall of the eastern Alps awaits, with angles of inclination of up to 40 degrees. Once it has been conquered, the views from the summit cross at 3,905 are nothing short of breathtaking: The Ortle Alps, the Ötztal Alps, the Silvretta and Bernina group as well as the peaks of the Adamello-Presanella Alps and the Brenta Dolomites.
THE Ortler Week at the Hotel Die Post
The “Ortler Week”, conducted by the Alpinschuler Ortler every June and then again in autumn, prepares participants for climbing the Ortler, South Tyrol’s highest mountain at 3,905 metres, within one week.
Ortler Week programme:
- Sat: Welcome and introduction to the programme
- Sun: Climb up the K2 climbing garden on the Langenstein, basics of rock climbing (climbing technique and abseiling)
- Mon: Tour to the Hinteres Schöneck up to 3,143 metres. Introduction to equipment and alpine risks and dangers. Techniques for walking cross-country and on secured via ferratas.
- Tue: Day to spend as you please – for instance with a massage at the Alpin Spa Hotel Die Post. In the evening: film show to commemorate 200 years since the Ortler was first climbed
- Wed: Ascent to the Suldenspitze at 3,376 metres via the Sulden glacier. Introduction to walking with crampons and in rope parties and to using the pickaxe.
- Thurs: Ascent to Payerhütte at 3,029 m
- Fri: This is the day when you will use everything you learned while climbing the Ortler (3,905 m). In the evening, we will look back on the week at the mountain guide regulars’ table.
High altitude and mountain tours around the Ortler
The Tschenglser Hochwand can be reached both by via ferrata or along a normal trail. Starting from Sulden, cross the Zaytal all the way to Düsseldorferhütte. From there, continue along the Zaytal towards the Zayjoch. Shortly before the glacier, turn left to the Tschenglser Hochwand.
- Duration: 9:00 h
- Length: 25 km
- Level of difficulty: difficult
- Vertical metres uphill: 1500
- Vertical metres downhill: 1500
- Elevation: 3376 m
A not-too-challenging tour up a 3000-metre summit with beautiful views. The Hintere Schöntaufspitze is considered South Tyrol’s “easiest” 3000-metre peak and offers great views of the mountains of the Martelltal valley. Stop for refreshments at the Madritschhütte along the way.
Description: The starting point for the hike up the Schöntaufspitze is the mountain station of the Sulden cable car line. From there, take route no. 151 to Madritschhütte and further on to Madritschjoch. From there, an increasingly steep ridge leads up the impressive summit at 3,325 metres. Follow the same route for the descent.
- Duration: 2:30 h
- Length: 3.6 km
- Level of difficulty: intermediate
- Vertical metres uphill: 725
- Vertical metres downhill: 725
- Altitude difference: 3325 m
The tour starts at the mountain station of the Kanzellift. The route leads north and slightly uphill along trail no. 12 until it splits into trail no. 12 and 12a. Important: Avoid trail 12a due to the risk of falling stones. The trail then continues over rustic bridges and leads to trail no. 5 leading up from Sulden. From here, the ascent to the Düsseldorferhütte becomes increasingly steep, with glorious views of the triumvirate made up by the Königsspitze, Monte Zebru and Ortler. The final ascent to the hut is steep, but the views will amply reward you for your efforts.
Up the Hoher Angelus: From Düsseldorferhütte, the route goes slightly downhill, then steeply across scree to the Reinstadler route. The ascent up the Angelusscharte is secured with ropes and constitutes the key section of the tour. After the challenging climbing passage, the stretch along the rocky ridge is a pleasure, culminating in a short climb just before the summit cross. For the descent, follow the ascent directions or continue along the southwestern ridge to the Angelusscharte, then to the Rosimjoch across the Laaser Ferner and finally to the mountain station of the Kanzellift (glacier equipment required).
- Duration: 7:30 h
- Length: 14 km
- Level of difficulty: difficult
- Vertical metres uphill: 1227
- Vertical metres downhill: 1227
- Elevation: 3521 m
